PRACTICAL MANUAL OF THE FORMAL SHIRT

How to choose your shirts ?

The shirt is an essential element in any wardrobe worthy of the name. It is also the insurance of an elegant style effortlessly. Even over a jeans, a shirt always makes the difference.

The problem ? Good shirts remain extremely rare in cupboards. Nevertheless, they are not so difficult to find and are not more expensive at Hast !
This article is going to learn you how to recognize quickly a quality shirt and especially to choose the one who will suit you best among the wide choice you have !

Yorgo
Trait Hast
1. Know how to recognize quality

THE THREAD COUNT

One of the most important unit to know the fabric quality is the thread count.
Number of threads making up a pound of fabric. The more the threads count is raised, the more the threads are fine, the more the fabric is of quality.

Generally, the ready-to-wear brands have a thread count fabric between 60-80. Hast team choosed only 100 to 120 fabrics, what assures a better quality of fabric, for the easiest maintenance.

COTTON THREAD

Any fabric consists of threads interlaced and weaved together.
The quality of the thread: simple, double or triple twisted. Hast has choosed only double twisted coton fabrics because of their resistance, solidity and sweetness ! You will sparingly find that kind of fabrics for the same prices than Hast provides.

THE WEAVING

Motive created by the warp yarns and the weft yarns which gives to the fabric its final aspect.
There are three main types there: the plain fabric (poplin, oxford…), twill, and satin. Hast three favorite weavings are the poplin, oxford and the twill.

With these three fabrics, Hast offers you the possibility of building you a wardrobe adapted to every season, even if, these three fabrics remain adapted for all the seasons !

Popeline

Poplin is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically gives a corded surface.

Hast provides a wide choice of shirts in poplin because it is fabric perfectly adapted to the wearing of suits.

Oxford

Oxford is a type of woven dress shirt fabric, employed to make a particular casual-to-formal cloth. The Oxford weave has a basketweave structure and a lustrous aspect.

Twill

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.

Trait Hast

THE FINISHES

There are in the ready-to-wear clothing two different sewings :
- the French seam : only one of the two sewings is visible on the external face of the shirt. Synonym of manual finish, it is rare in the field of the ready-to-wear clothing.
The " casual " and premium shirts Hast are English-style sewn for a quality fact-hand to the prices of the ready-to-wear clothing

- The double-needle stitching, the most current : consist of two lines of parallel points. Hast has choosed this sewing for its formal shirts in order to propose them to you at the best prices, without decreasing the quality.

Couture anglaise
Couture double aiguille

Other quality signs of a shirt, presents on Hast products :
- Beveled cuff
- Horizontal last button-hole
- Continuity of the motives between sleeves and body of the shirt

Hast offers from now a large range of premium shirts which finishes are appropriate to the custom-made product and in fact-hand at the priceof the ready-to-wear clothing :

- Buttons in mother-of-pearl selected at a French manufacturer sewn « zampa di gallina »
- Swallows of reinforcement
- French sewings
- Doucle twisted fabric 140/2 coming from one of the best European suppliers

ORIGIN OF FABRICS AND PLACES OF MANUFACTURING

The origin of your shirts is a major quality sign. Observe your labels, you will see many of " made in China " for example or " designed in Italy " which also involves an Asian clothing business. Hast guarantees you on the contrary an European manufacturing, a quality security with shirts drawn in France and made in Europe by very qualified workshops.

Also, the origin of fabrics, rarely indicated, participates widely in the quality of the finished product. Even there Hast provides itself with suppliers from Italy, Portugal or Turkey, countries were known for the quality of their fabrics.

Provenance
Trait Hast
2. Know how to choose a shirt which suits you well !

THE GOOD SIZE

The essential stage in any purchase of garment is to find the good size, particularly important in the choice of a formal shirt.
That is why Hast proposes a precise siez guide. The delivery and the exchange are free in France and not very expensive in other countries, you thus take no risk in making order.
Do not hesitate to contact our team by e-mailing us in contact@hast.fr or by telephone at +33 ( 0 ) 7 83 47 23 44 if you have the slightest doubt !

DOES YOUR SHIRT SUIT YOU WELL ? CHECKLIST :

- We must be able to slide easily two fingers between the neck and the closed collar
- The sewing of the shoulder must rest on the corner of the shoulder’s bone
- Not too mush fabric on the sleeve
- The sleeve ends at the level of the joint between the palm and the cuff
- The shirt, into the pants, presents a minimum of fold and no tension on buttons
- Out of the pants, the shirt stop halfway up between the waist and the crotch.

THE GOOD SHAPE

Choosing the shape of ideal shirt depends on your morphology.

- Rather skinny : Choose the extra-slim cut, shirt has 2 little darts in the back
- For the wider statures : a back without darts makes a less tight shirt which will be better adapted to you.

You have the basic ajusted cut without darts, drawn to suit with the majority of morphologies and a extra-ajusted cut for slimer people !

Amaury

Finding a shirt in your size is not always easy in ready-to-wear clothing, in particular when you are tall ! Hast offers you a solution : the option " longer sleeve" which adds 5cm of sleeves and 4cm of total length in your shirt for a perfect sizing !

Trait Hast
3. Reminder of the essential points
M'Boko

You know now the essential points to recognize a good shirt and choose one adapted to your morphology :
- Watch the quality of the fabric and the finishes
- The attention to details is a pledge of quality !
- Before purchase, take your measurements and refer to the size guide.
- Take advantage of options " longer sleeves " and " extra-adjusted cut" if necessary
- Dare to be different with colours but not too mush !
- Remain sober

It's time to brush your old shirts under the carpet and to begin a new wardrobe !


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